Nestled alongside the shimmering shores of Lake Geneva and the bustling energy of Bains du Paquis, I discovered La Buvette des Bains. Here, people from all walks of life gather to indulge in Switzerland’s iconic treat; bubbling, golden cheese fondue.
Cheese fondue has a long history in Switzerland; thanks to the country’s pristine grazing fields and well-fed cows, Switzerland produces some of the world’s best cheeses. Until the Second World War, the Swiss were never mesmerized by cheese fondue; that all changed when the war broke out, and Switzerland experienced cheese fever.
The best place to learn about Switzerland’s cheese heritage is to visit the small town of Gruyères, located in the Canton of Fribourg. The medieval town is a popular tourist destination with some of Switzerland’s most picturesque scenery, boasting stunning lakes and mountain views.
As we make our way to Gruyères from Geneva’s main station, we are excited to hop on the relatively short train journey on the SBB train line. The ride is relatively short, not more than an hour and a half long. Of all the long-distance regular public service train rides, this one has the best scenery you could ever think of; that’s not to undermine those in the Jungfrau region as well.
The small town of Gruyères has a population of just over 50,000 residents. Many come here not only to explore the picturesque scenery but also to explore Gruyères’ renowned cheese factory. The Gruyères cheese factory attracts thousands of visitors each year to sample its most exquisite cheeses.
La Maison Gruyère, as it is commonly called, produces 29,000 tons of cheese each year. Making Gruyere cheese a renowned brand worldwide. The classic cheese has a mild, smooth, and exceptionally nutty taste.
A Day at Maison Du Gruyère
The Maison du Gruyère cheese factory has a long tradition of making Swiss cheese, with a recipe handed down for generations. Once inside, you will have the opportunity to go through the various stages of cheese production; each section of the factory has its own distinct category.
For starters, you will come across smell. This arena allows you to smell the flora on which the pure-bred cows are fed to produce milk, which is, in turn, used to make Swiss cheese. You will also get to explore a section where you can touch the cowhides, along with other paraphernalia used in cheese making, such as the cheese probe, brush, milk canisters, and more.
One of the most mesmerizing things about visiting the cheese factory is exploring its vast grounds, where you can see cows grazing in its expansive fields. Once you make your way back to the factory, you can explore the exhibit panels, which feature general information on the cheese and dairy products of Switzerland.
Each visitor is given a headset that includes narrations in several European, Asian, and Mediterranean languages. If you are lucky enough, every morning you might experience a live cheese-making production session from the visitor’s observatory gallery.
A Fondue Gathering
When the Swiss invite you over for a cheese fondue evening, there is a certain ritual associated with the event. Typically considered a winter meal, you are apt to be invited to a Swiss cheese fondue evening on a cold night in December or January. It’s only the tourists who like to sample cheese fondue in the sweltering hot summer months.
For starters, the cheese must melt in the pot in which it is served. After all, the word fondue comes from the French verb fondre, which means to melt. Theoretically, anything that melts is referred to as fondue, which is why you also have chocolate fondue.
Once the cheese is finely chopped, it is heated with some wine and chopped garlic, and cornstarch is added to the grated cheese. The heat is gradually increased until the cheese is thick and creamy enough to be used as a dip.
Our host rises and sets the sizzling caquelon at the center of the table, with the flame flickering beneath. In true Swiss fashion, we pour wine and reach for hearty chunks of bread, ready for dipping.
As tradition has it, when you enjoy fondue, you will need pieces of bread to complement the all-essential dipping session. Fondue dippers are a must for each guest, and our host ensures that we are all armed with one. With a dipper in hand, you can dip potatoes, bread, or your choice of cold cuts into the sizzling-hot cheese pot.
As the last bit of cheese begins to melt at the bottom of the pot, our host perks up. Instead of mopping the last bit, she lets the flame cook the cheese at the bottom of the pot. The dark crust that forms is as sumptuous and tasty as ever, commonly called religieuse; it is considered a delicacy on its own.
Although there is no hard and fast rule about what type of cheese you can use to make a typical, authentic cheese fondue, Gruyère cheese is a classic example. Indeed, visiting a Swiss cheese factory was a mesmerizing experience, more so was enjoying it with friends!